Moving the Cocking Pin to start disassembly

[K9TXS]

When disassembling the Savage 10/110 bolt for maintenance, parts replacement, etc., I've seen photos/videos of people using the corner of their reloading bench, a board, etc. to move the cocking pin so the bolt could be disassembled.

The easy way is to use an adjustable wrench (Crescent wrench). The wrench is closed over the bolt at the cocking pin. Holding the bolt handle, turn the wrench and it easily moves the cocking pin. After reassembly, do the reverse.

This makes it very easy for the first step.
I don't recall where I saw this first posted. Not my idea, just wanted to pass it along to fellow Savage shooters.

 

[SevenFan]

I use a short piece of hardwood set on the bench, doesn't take much effort to move cocking piece.

 

[CoalCrackerAl]

My Mosin Nagant bolt was a bugger to get apart. I put a pistol recoil spring in it for the firing pin. Reduced the trigger pull down to 1 lb 8.7 ounces.

 

[6Dasher4win]

Or, dry fire it before removal. The hold trigger back when lifting the bolt.

 

[K9TXS]

Or, dry fire it before removal. The hold trigger back when lifting the bolt.

That doesn't work on a 110.

 

[6Dasher4win]

It works on my #10 ?

 

[Txhillbilly]

I find no need in de-cocking the firing pin when taking the bolt apart. When you loosen the bolt handle retaining screw, it releases the spring pressure on the firing pin assembly enough to de-cock the cocking pin by hand.
Works the same way when you are assembling the bolt, you can start the threads on the bolt handle retaining screw, and then cock the retaining pin in place by hand, then finish tightening the rear screw.

 

[6Dasher4win]

It is easier to disassemble this way.

 

[douglasskid]

I'll give the adjustable wrench a try. THANKS

 

[Berrnard]

burp on the impact driver worked for me
the hard part is getting the cocking lever back in place

 

[K9TXS]

burp on the impact driver worked for me
the hard part is getting the cocking lever back in place

Used the adjustable wrench as shown in post #1. Easy-Peasy

 

[Paddyd]

I use the edge of my
loading bench to de cock and cock the bolt. Takes less that 5 seconds.

 

[K9TXS]

I use to do this as well until I saw someone else using a wrench. For me it's much easier.

 

[Bullzeye]

OUCH! looks like a good way to mark up the bolt. Put allen wrench in the end, put it on the floor and step on it. It will loosen.

 

[Josh06]

I'm always able to de-cock easily by just pushing it to the side with my thumb. I have a few with stronger springs that require using the edge of a desk to cock but have never had much issue with this part.

 

[Paddyd]

I'm always able to de-cock easily by just pushing it to the side with my thumb. I have a few with stronger springs that require using the edge of a desk to cock but have never had much issue with this part.

It's all about technique

 

[Josh06]

It's all about technique

Very true

 

[ONE-TEN]

Little trick for any of the DIY’rs (which I hope is most of us anyhoo.)

Can smooth the nub at the top of the cocking ramp, you don’t have to do any of that. I can push the cocking piece over and it falls. Just need to be careful not to eliminate it completely or create a negative angle.

Here’s my old bolt sleeve. (I’m using a Titanium sleeve now, but did the same.) Can see the profile compared to your stock part. It also helps with lift.