Trigger creep on a bran spankin new Savage 110

Trigger creep? With an Accutrigger?? It was designed to eliminate practically all creep. Are you positive that is what you are experiencing? Can you explain it? Just making sure you aren’t confusing depressing the safety blade as @‘mmýt

Anyway, a professional trigger job makes any trigger feel very nice. If any creep is present, it’s remedied. As well as any gritty or rough engagement and also over-travel STOP. All said, making the trigger feel clean, falling away trigger break (what people say is the trigger “Breaking like Glass”), and eliminating any over-travel or soft trigger. So it feels like it’s hitting a brick wall!

The Accutrigger is adjustable, so simply making it lighter eliminates much of the feeling of creep. You could try adjusting first.
 
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This should have been in the box.....

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When i pull the trigger, it depresses slightly before making firing pin go off. I don't need a lighter trigger pull. I need a nice crisp trigger. What's strange is my other Savages are quite nice.
 
CFJunkie said:
Just don't go too far with trying to make the trigger pull ultra light.
Accu-Triggers get very sensitive to side pressure on the blade when you get within the last 0.5 lbs. of minimum pull.
Click to expand...

He said brand new. So it might be a V2 Accutrigger which has eliminated the side pressure tripping problem. (FINALLY!) I’m wondering?

Hey HuntFishDrink! Can you by any chance post a picture of your rig? I’m curious if yours have a V1 or V2 Accutrigger?
 
HuntFishDrink said:
Crap, I'm not set up to send image at this time.
Click to expand...

That’s OK. You have an Apex Hunter? So the Action looks like the one below, correct? Ok, yours is from 2025 & still uses the V1 Accutrigger. Which is fine, just as was mentioned, you do need to be mindful of side load tripping the Sear.
 
Maybe that's what it is, but again, I have a .270 bought at the same time and they are not the same. .270 trigger is very nice. Never experienced this with the accu trigger.
 
Yeah, it’s strange. Accutriggers were designed to have virtually NO creep! That’s one reason it really should have the Safety Blade. Because with almost no creep on a 1-stage trigger, it’s more prone to Slam-Fire when closing the bolt; even without the “slam”.

Now, you said creep, but is there any chance you mean it’s much heavier than others you’ve had? Have you tried adjusting it? Or yeah, if you are simply speaking of safety blade travel, then I can understand. Many people simply don’t like the feel, because it is so much like a 2-Stage. So much in fact, many articles in firearms mags through the years, have mistakenly called the Accutrigger a 2-Stage Trigger. However, it’s not. The Safety Blade has no interaction with the trigger function other than “STOPPING” the Sear from dropping enough to release the Striker FP. I can tell you, the Target Accutrigger with the Red Safety Blade is a much better starting point. It still needs worked, but the Safety Blade spring is much lighter than the Standard or Varmint Accutriggers.

Here are the two. You can see how much heavier the regular Safety Blade Spring is over the one in the Target
Accutrigger.



When I worked my regular Accutriggers, I would turn & press in a brass base to hold a new lighter spring entirely. You could do something like this.
 
CoalCrackerAl said:
If one removes the safety blade. Does it render the trigger in operable? Some times they bother me. Just a silly thing on my end.
Click to expand...

Oh, no.. not at all. The trigger & Sear operate just like any other trigger. The Safety Blade & spring are independent from the trigger. So yes, it can be removed. And many people have. However, I generally do not recommend it. I would recommend doing as I outlined above. Replace the Blade spring with a lighter spring. Although, its needs what I did because the factory safety blade spring uses a smaller coiled section( Like the trigger spring), circled in red here. But the smaller coiled end goes up into the hole in the trigger. A regular spring needs a guide like I did.


I turned turn a piece brass rod and pressed it into the hole in the trigger.


I also make Titanium shims to remove all sideplay from the trigger. This is the turning tool I made to turn perfect size Titanium shims.



And here is my finished worked over Accutrigger. I didn’t show it, but the Sear & trigger mating surfaces have been stoned perfectly aligned & polished. This trigger is about 1lb. And feels amazing. It’s not worth it to me to spend $300 for the best Triggers, as this costs a couple bucks to do.


There is a difference between someone using FLITZ polish & a Dremel, and replacing the trigger spring with the lighter Target spring, and someone who knows triggers through & through, and has been working & setting them on many different firearms for over two decades, doing a complete modification & set up on a factory trigger.
 
CoalCrackerAl said:
I did the springs swap before.(y)
Click to expand...
The spring swap is OK, but the problem lies again, in the Safety Blade spring. It’s too heavy. So when a lighter target trigger spring is used, the Safety Blade spring overtakes the trigger spring. Meaning, even if the safety blade is depressed straight on, it starts to push the trigger BEFORE the safety blade has collapsed. This is what is happening in many cases when the trigger locks up. The same as when side loading. A lighter Safety Blade spring alleviates this problem. This is the reason the Target Accutrigger with the Red Blade uses a lighter spring.

Oh, and while the Target Trigger spring is sold all over, the Target Safety Spring is NOT! However, thanks in part to ME, GunShack started selling complete Target Accutriggers. And now, others have taken course. Before I convinced Gunshack of this, the Target Red Blade Accutriggers were like Hen’s Teeth to find!
 
I pull on the 1st to get to the actual trigger and just when the trigger should break it falls back a tiny bit and then i pull a little more and it breaks. I will have to take it apart and see what is going on . Thanks for all of the replies. You guys are great.
 
Here’s why the Accutrigger is what is.

These are two triggers I was stoning the surfaces of. The first is a Savage Non-Accutrigger, 2-screw trigger. This pic shows the trigger uses a 90° shelf and has a good bit of release. (Shelf Height)


Next is an Accutrigger, although the picture is deceiving, the trigger shelf height is quite a bit shorter. Not only that, but it very clearly has a release escape angle. This even more so shortens shelf height & thus, the length of release. The trigger shelf height is what accounts for the amount of Creep.


Here is a different side pic of an Accutrigger and shows the height of the trigger shelf better. It’s quite short.
 
Just a FYI, I was showing a Savage Axis XP to a customer and he mentioned the trigger pull. This model does NOT have the accutrigger. I told him that they include a yellow tipped spring adjuster so one can adjust it.

When I went to show him the tool it was not there. I went a got a adjustment tool to show him and then took the action out of the stock and guess what?
Savage changed the design of the spring so you cannot adjust it. I guess that is why there was no tool in the box.

BTW, nice pictures and explanation on the above posts.

I have 4 Savage actions, 2 I have replaced the guts with a Timny trigger and one is the red blade and my model 12 is stock.
 

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