- Joined
- Jan 12, 2026
- Messages
- 353
Over the last few years, I have had lots of time to consider how to achieve better accuracy using a scope while shooting and measuring groups.
I have tended to migrate to higher power optics over the last 10 years and it has helped me "aim small and hit small".
Here are a few tips I give to people at our range who ask for help when trying to get their rifles hit where they think they are aiming.
Often their set up eliminates any chance of getting POI consistency, but even when they are in a good position, they still have problems achieving consistency and keeping their groups small, or hitting their point of aim, if they are shooting each round at a separate target dot.
It is amazing how much a little bit of change in your position behind a scope will change your POI.
I set up with the scope reticle on my aim point and before I put my finger on the trigger, I move my head back just a bit until I can see the black ring around the circumference of the scope image.
The ring might not be visible with low power scopes, but I am now using some pretty high power target scopes.
First, I make sure that the black ring is equally wide all around the scope edge.
That tells me I am in the center of the optical plane.
Next, I move my head slightly forward being careful that the ring stays equally wide around the edge of the scope image until the ring just goes away.
(I am careful that I don't go any further forward because that is the last reference that you can be sure of. Once the ring just disappears, you can't be sure how much closer to the eyepiece you are or if you have moved off the center of the optical plane.)
By keeping the ring concentric until it just disappears, I know I am always in the same position relative to the scope and the optical plane.
I verify my aim point and pull the trigger.
That process does two things:
1) It gets me in the center of the optical plane. If I was right or left, the POI will be to the left or right.
2) It always has my eye in the same position relative to the eyepiece. If I move further forward by 1/8 inch, the POI will be high by 1/4 inch. If I move out further by 1/8 inch, the POI will be low by 1/4 inch.
When I follow my procedure, I shoot some really great groups.
With my .223 Savage 12 FV with a Shilen Select Match barrel, over 30% of my 5-round groups are under 0.2 inches at 100 yards.
When I get confident because I have a string of really good shots, I sometimes neglect all of my steps and, sure enough, my next shot is not where I aimed it. That gets under .200 groups to grow to .250 groups with just one sloppy shot.
I'm 82 years old, so my mind wonders a bit and I shake a bit.
But I also I tend to get careless at least one shot in more than half of my groups.
Those lead to what I call 'shooter induced variations'.
I can't get rid of them entirely, but I try really hard to minimize how many times I mess up.
I have tended to migrate to higher power optics over the last 10 years and it has helped me "aim small and hit small".
Here are a few tips I give to people at our range who ask for help when trying to get their rifles hit where they think they are aiming.
Often their set up eliminates any chance of getting POI consistency, but even when they are in a good position, they still have problems achieving consistency and keeping their groups small, or hitting their point of aim, if they are shooting each round at a separate target dot.
It is amazing how much a little bit of change in your position behind a scope will change your POI.
I set up with the scope reticle on my aim point and before I put my finger on the trigger, I move my head back just a bit until I can see the black ring around the circumference of the scope image.
The ring might not be visible with low power scopes, but I am now using some pretty high power target scopes.
First, I make sure that the black ring is equally wide all around the scope edge.
That tells me I am in the center of the optical plane.
Next, I move my head slightly forward being careful that the ring stays equally wide around the edge of the scope image until the ring just goes away.
(I am careful that I don't go any further forward because that is the last reference that you can be sure of. Once the ring just disappears, you can't be sure how much closer to the eyepiece you are or if you have moved off the center of the optical plane.)
By keeping the ring concentric until it just disappears, I know I am always in the same position relative to the scope and the optical plane.
I verify my aim point and pull the trigger.
That process does two things:
1) It gets me in the center of the optical plane. If I was right or left, the POI will be to the left or right.
2) It always has my eye in the same position relative to the eyepiece. If I move further forward by 1/8 inch, the POI will be high by 1/4 inch. If I move out further by 1/8 inch, the POI will be low by 1/4 inch.
When I follow my procedure, I shoot some really great groups.
With my .223 Savage 12 FV with a Shilen Select Match barrel, over 30% of my 5-round groups are under 0.2 inches at 100 yards.
When I get confident because I have a string of really good shots, I sometimes neglect all of my steps and, sure enough, my next shot is not where I aimed it. That gets under .200 groups to grow to .250 groups with just one sloppy shot.
I'm 82 years old, so my mind wonders a bit and I shake a bit.
But I also I tend to get careless at least one shot in more than half of my groups.
Those lead to what I call 'shooter induced variations'.
I can't get rid of them entirely, but I try really hard to minimize how many times I mess up.
Some good techniques to follow. 
