Axis II Bolt Lift Question

Uncle Grinch

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Middle Georgia
I just bought an Axis II in 308 Win and noticed immediately the “catch” when opening and closing the action. Will this wear in with time? Also found a bolt lift kit that uses a roller bearing washer to help smooth the lift issue. Anyone have any experience with this kit?
 
I just bought an Axis II in 308 Win and noticed immediately the “catch” when opening and closing the action. Will this wear in with time? Also found a bolt lift kit that uses a roller bearing washer to help smooth the lift issue. Anyone have any experience with this kit?
It does wear in, I found with the newer savage bolt action rifles that working the bolt like it's an old 98k mauser makes it easier once you get it figured out for the rifle you have you'll basically work it without gripping the bolt and it's faster than grabbing the ball and working it.
I've heard that the kits do reduce the effort required to work the bolt by around 30% .
 
Unfortunately nothing about that is going to "wear in" to the point of any improvement. The issue is a geometry problem involving the cocking ramp and the trigger timing. "Lift kits"don't do much for the Axis because of the type of spring system they use, and even when when the do, it only alleviates 1 in/lb of effort. On the average, it takes 22 in/lbs to cock the bolt, and typically the firing pin de-cocks an average of .100 ". And because the firing pin is non-adjustable, it is not readily fixed by the consumer.
I have developed a procedure to correct all the geometry and timing to deliver a cocking effort of 12 in/lbs and increased striker energy.
 
Unfortunately nothing about that is going to "wear in" to the point of any improvement. The issue is a geometry problem involving the cocking ramp and the trigger timing. "Lift kits"don't do much for the Axis because of the type of spring system they use, and even when when the do, it only alleviates 1 in/lb of effort. On the average, it takes 22 in/lbs to cock the bolt, and typically the firing pin de-cocks an average of .100 ". And because the firing pin is non-adjustable, it is not readily fixed by the consumer.
I have developed a procedure to correct all the geometry and timing to deliver a cocking effort of 12 in/lbs and increased striker energy.
Interesting 🤔 does this procedure involve any machine work or modification an polishing anything of that nature? I've heard of other things being done but it was mostly involving taking the rifle to a gunsmith and having work done on it.
 
Interesting 🤔 does this procedure involve any machine work or modification an polishing anything of that nature? I've heard of other things being done but it was mostly involving taking the rifle to a gunsmith and having work done on it.
That's what I was conveying, just not using those exact words.
 
Same trains of thought on parallel tracks,. I've got my bolt an the receiver smooth it's not as good as I'd like it to be but it's not as stiff or dragging doesn't feel like it anyway.
 
Send it to sharpshooter for an action job. His work is outstanding.
I'm not in a position to source out my project yet, but I like doing the work myself as much as possible it's kind of a learning, satisfaction thing and I've already done part of it. 🙂but I will keep him in mind for when or if I get in a better position to do that. 👍
 
I tried some of the DIY bolt lift improvement ideas. They had minimal effect. I sent my action to Fred at Sharpshooter and he worked his magic. 100% improvement in bolt lift and cocking. He has been doing this for many years and has the machining process down. Save your money and wait for it to be done right.
 
I just got a couple of the Desh bearing kits in. I have 2 Savages, actualy a model 11 action and a Stevens 200. The model 11 use to take over 20lbs pressure to cock. I kept working with it and got it to about 7 1/2 lbs. It is super smooth. That action has an after market bolt handle as well as a Elftman trigger in it. I put the Desh kit in and its running right at an Ave. of 5lbs 11oz. off of my digital trigger guage. Now if you asked me exactly what I did I would really have to sit down and think about it. The Stevens action is still pretty high put I can tell it is smoother with the Desh kit. I will go back and work with this action more. In my eyes 1.the lift 2.The extractor and 3. they are but ugly. Are the biggest problems with the Savage rifle. Oh yes the bolt head also quite often needs bushed and firing pin turned. Barrels usually look like hell inside. Haha How do they shoot so well???

I have never owned an Axis so really not sure what the differences are. Point is they can be worked down with patience and a little knowledge. Its hard to put metal back on.
 
I finally got around to installing my bolt lift improvement kit and must say it made quite a noticeable improvement. I didn’t do any scientific measurements, but it made a major change in lift effort.
 
I finally got around to installing my bolt lift improvement kit and must say it made quite a noticeable improvement. I didn’t do any scientific measurements, but it made a major change in lift effort.
Check your firing pin protrusion. Some have reported light primer strikes after installing some of those kits. I'm not sure of all of the mechanics but I seem to remember reading that the throw was shortened and some brands of primers would not ignite.
 
Yes, I think firing pin protrusion should typically be in the .050-.055" range.

I'm not familiar with the Axis line so you should double-check that.

Some of those lift kits may not be a problem.
 
Yes. Sharpshooter Supply. Fred Moreo. He's a very experienced gunsmith that has spent a lot of time engineering solutions for Savage rifles. He's done some work for me on a couple of actions and I have been very satisfied with it.

http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/
I second Fred's work. I've had two centerfire Savages re-worked by Fred and you won't find anyone who knows these guns better than him.

Nice to see you on here Fred, my best to "Peaches".
 
Yes, over time it smooths out a bit. (As all metal parts do.) However, this takes many thousands & thousands of rounds, and typically, many years to happen. Even so, it’s still never going to be a Tikka! You Smellin’ what I’m steppin’ in? 🤣 Secondly, yes, the bolt lift kit will help some, however some people don’t feel they provide anny benefit, others say (in this thread, in fact!), that YES, they do help quite a bit. For the low price, I absolutely recommend doing the lift kit, as well as a longer Bolt Handle. As for having work done, the same applies. Some will recommend having it done everytime. However, there are plenty of posts on forums that claim an expensive Action job did nothing and the owners wish they had not spent the money. It’s a personal thing. I’ve seen first hand what some basic massaging, a lift kit and a trick or two, can do for an Action. I’ve even posted videos proving this. (110 Action in my case.) However, I personally, once again, have never seen any concrete evidence of an Action job being worth the expense, aside from anecdotal. But I’m only one person.

In the end, you really only know by learning & doing. Need to come to one’s own conclusion on what is money well spent. I know what works for me, and what I’m not willing to throw money at for not trusting. But each person must come to their own decision on these matters.
 
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I would do the longer bolt handle and knob first. Then if you still don't like it do the kit. Personally, I did not care for the kit at all. You can tell by the photo below how an extended bolt handle is a good bit longer that the factory. The red bolt knob is a Big Bertha.

The factory is the middle one.
IMG_0059.webp
 
The red one looks to be almost 2 inches longer than factory which is a bit longer throw, wondering does it work well with a scope?perhaps could we see a picture of it in the open position and one with the closed position?I'm interested to see 👀 how much further it will protrude from the stock. Thanks 😊
 
I recommend them together because you’re doing the same job. And for less than $30, why not? Or, if you are like me, you make your own.

The kits I make are a Titanium plate with a Silicone Nitride bearing ball. I make a couple from time to time & give them away to Savage owners. But it’s easy to make one from a 38spl. case head & Steel bearing ball. (BB). Although several manufactures make them for sale for under $30. I believe the extended bolt handle & lift kit go hand in hand. (This is my model 10 in fairness, in its old MDT Chassis. But I have heard of similar results with the Axis.)

With just a bit of inexpensive work, this action can be achieved.
 
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