ONE-TEN
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2026
- Messages
- 1,054
So you’ve read about them and were attracted to Savage’s famous DIY barrel change ability? Or maybe you liked the lower prices per high performance Savage can offer. So you decided to get one. Now you want to modify it but have no idea where to begin. Right? Here’s a bit a guide to follow.
First decide what you want it for. Is this going to be a hunting rig or a bench rifle? Maybe you simply like messing around with, modifying guns? Regardless, there are a few differences in parts. For me, though, there are some things I believe every Savage can benefit from. First is a lift kit & bolt handle. This drastically improves Savage’s forever heavy bolt lift issue. Some make their own, which a quick Google search for “Savage DIY Bolt Lift Kit” can help you with. Or, just look here: https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/diy-savage-bolt-lift-kit.32345/ Others like myself, have put gone the machining approach with newer materials. I make my own lift kits using Titanium plate, silicone nitride bearing balls & Tungsten Carbide bearing surface. (No, I don’t sell them. But I have from time to time made a few & given them away.) Also, there are many options in lift kits online. Again, quick search. Next is the bolt handle. A longer bolt handle gives more mechanical leverage, easing lift. (Duh! LOL!
) These days, there are several choices, but from experience, there are two which I believe stand out. The ones I use now are the Lumley arms Titanium bolt handles. They offer them standard or fluted & silver or black color. Great bolt handles.
https://lumleyarms.us/parts-by-make...age-titanium-bolt-handle-left-hand-non-fluted
Next is the ofiginal for Savages, Glades Armory. These are Steel also in silver or black and also quite nice.
https://gladesarmory.com/product-category/savage-arms/savage-10-110-right-hand-savage-arms/
Also needed will be the bolt “knob” which is threaded on. I make my own again, from Titanium, but the aforementioned suppliers also offer several styles. These handles are al threaded 5/16”-24.
Next is picking out the scope you want (which I won’t get into here because it’s a topic unto its own!) However, I will discuss mounting the scope. In the past, all too often I’ve come across people who buy a nice a nice rifle, an expensive scope, then drop them in Trash mounting hardware! Why? To get the most from the setup, precision scope mounts should be used. For sake of argument, I’m just gonna stick with modern Picatinny mounting. This is what over 90% of shooters are using & by far the most popular. Don’t have to spend a fortune, but be prepared to spend more than a few bucks. My recommendation is a 1-piece Picatinny rail made of 7075 Billet Aluminum. There are several manufacturers who make high precision scope Rails for Savage. I use a Talley. But there is also Warne, EGW, Leupold, among others. There is also the extremely high end Murphy Precision rails, in either Stainless Steel or Titanium. Most of these mentioned do also make scope rings. I also prefer rings made of 7075. Honestly, I really do recommend just going to Google Images & searching “Picatinny Scope Rings 7075”. There are dozens & dozens of choices. And some you won’t even find. For instance, I use Aldere PRS rings. But quite frankly, I’ll simply say to go with whatever style you like, in those parameters, of name brands. You don’t want the no-name, cheaper 6061 Aluminum rings for $16. However, there are some inexpensive brands from China that do offer exceptional quality. Those like “Monstrum”. I have a set of theirs I’ll be using on an AKM I’m building. But my bench Savage gets a set of $150 Aldere rings. However, it’s not necessary to have the $400+ Spuhr mount that all the Pros use. Baggin’ what I’m rakin’?
Triggers. Here’s a topic of both love & mixed contention. I have been a fan of the Accutrigger more many, many years. A worked over Target Accutrigger will deliver the same results that any aftermarket trigger will. However, I understand not everyone is qualified to set up & work over their stock triggers for smooth precision take-up & release, crisp break and minimum over-travel. Everything necessary to keep your trigger finger brain happy. However, sometimes a simple spring change can do wonders. But for those looking for an aftermarket trigger, there is one thing to keep in mind. All aftermarket triggers, with the exception of Jard, use the STOCK Savage Sear. In both top & bottom Sear style. In my extensive study & use, this limits what any trigger can deliver. “So everyone should just go buy a Jard then, right? Because it includes an aftermarket Sear with the Jard trigger” Well, not exactly. Feedback of the Jard trigger has been mixed. It’s either a love it or hate trigger. They don’t really have any middle ground. It will either work, or need a lot of WORK to get it right! Even then, it won’t really give the shooter anything over what a properly set up factory trigger can do. Aftermarket Savage Triggers cost anywhere from around $100 for the basic Rifle Basix, up to over $300 for the new Bix’n Andy. And yes, even for over $300, the Bix’n Andy trigger still uses the FACTORY Savage Sear! And there is so much more I could talk about here, but having a super “LIGHT” trigger, doesn’t mean a shooter will be more accurate. Most precision shooters actually, are using triggers in the 1.5-2lb range consistently. Going to a 4oz trigger doesn’t instantly make one accurate. It just doesn’t. Accuracy is the byproduct of consistency. NOT the byproduct of a “light trigger”. Also, on that note, there is more to a trigger than the LBS. of pressure. As I mentioned earlier, there is smooth take-up & release, the break & over-travel. I’ve set up triggers on 1911’s that would break at 4lbs, but felt better (and lighter), than some 2-pound triggers I’ve pulled. Just food for thought. Also, we don’t really want our hunting rifle’s trigger to be, really, anything under 2lbs. Maybe even heavier. And for those who have not experienced, a trigger under 1-pound is startlingly light. The term “hair trigger” is just a word until experienced. These things will go off if you even THINK about touching the trigger! LOL!.
So those are things which apply to all Savages I think. From there it’s deciding what it’s for. Chassis are popular for target & bench rifles, but not as much for hunting guns. And of course, the topic that drew many to Savage in the first place. The replaceable Barrel. But then, do you need a barrel replacement? If the gun is new, then no. Ok, you bought is used in the caliber/cartridge you wanted. Well, have you fired it? How’s it shoot? These are things one should know before even thinking about a new barrel. When I first started building Savage 110’s, I looked for the cheapest used rifle I possible could find! Found a used model 10 in 243Win(which wasn’t the cartridge I wanted anyway.), so I knew from the beginning, and was planning on rebarrel & build from the start. When next I build another, I’ll purchase a bare hooded Actions to start. I that is your interest, several barrel manufacturers offer super high quality Prefits. Shilen, Criterion, McGowen, X-Caliber, Krieger, Preferred, are the main players. Theres also EABCO, & Shaw Barrels on the more budget end & places like Bugholes that will sell & machine top shelf Bartlein & Brux barrels as Prefits.
First decide what you want it for. Is this going to be a hunting rig or a bench rifle? Maybe you simply like messing around with, modifying guns? Regardless, there are a few differences in parts. For me, though, there are some things I believe every Savage can benefit from. First is a lift kit & bolt handle. This drastically improves Savage’s forever heavy bolt lift issue. Some make their own, which a quick Google search for “Savage DIY Bolt Lift Kit” can help you with. Or, just look here: https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/diy-savage-bolt-lift-kit.32345/ Others like myself, have put gone the machining approach with newer materials. I make my own lift kits using Titanium plate, silicone nitride bearing balls & Tungsten Carbide bearing surface. (No, I don’t sell them. But I have from time to time made a few & given them away.) Also, there are many options in lift kits online. Again, quick search. Next is the bolt handle. A longer bolt handle gives more mechanical leverage, easing lift. (Duh! LOL!
) These days, there are several choices, but from experience, there are two which I believe stand out. The ones I use now are the Lumley arms Titanium bolt handles. They offer them standard or fluted & silver or black color. Great bolt handles. https://lumleyarms.us/parts-by-make...age-titanium-bolt-handle-left-hand-non-fluted
Next is the ofiginal for Savages, Glades Armory. These are Steel also in silver or black and also quite nice.
https://gladesarmory.com/product-category/savage-arms/savage-10-110-right-hand-savage-arms/
Also needed will be the bolt “knob” which is threaded on. I make my own again, from Titanium, but the aforementioned suppliers also offer several styles. These handles are al threaded 5/16”-24.
Next is picking out the scope you want (which I won’t get into here because it’s a topic unto its own!) However, I will discuss mounting the scope. In the past, all too often I’ve come across people who buy a nice a nice rifle, an expensive scope, then drop them in Trash mounting hardware! Why? To get the most from the setup, precision scope mounts should be used. For sake of argument, I’m just gonna stick with modern Picatinny mounting. This is what over 90% of shooters are using & by far the most popular. Don’t have to spend a fortune, but be prepared to spend more than a few bucks. My recommendation is a 1-piece Picatinny rail made of 7075 Billet Aluminum. There are several manufacturers who make high precision scope Rails for Savage. I use a Talley. But there is also Warne, EGW, Leupold, among others. There is also the extremely high end Murphy Precision rails, in either Stainless Steel or Titanium. Most of these mentioned do also make scope rings. I also prefer rings made of 7075. Honestly, I really do recommend just going to Google Images & searching “Picatinny Scope Rings 7075”. There are dozens & dozens of choices. And some you won’t even find. For instance, I use Aldere PRS rings. But quite frankly, I’ll simply say to go with whatever style you like, in those parameters, of name brands. You don’t want the no-name, cheaper 6061 Aluminum rings for $16. However, there are some inexpensive brands from China that do offer exceptional quality. Those like “Monstrum”. I have a set of theirs I’ll be using on an AKM I’m building. But my bench Savage gets a set of $150 Aldere rings. However, it’s not necessary to have the $400+ Spuhr mount that all the Pros use. Baggin’ what I’m rakin’?
Triggers. Here’s a topic of both love & mixed contention. I have been a fan of the Accutrigger more many, many years. A worked over Target Accutrigger will deliver the same results that any aftermarket trigger will. However, I understand not everyone is qualified to set up & work over their stock triggers for smooth precision take-up & release, crisp break and minimum over-travel. Everything necessary to keep your trigger finger brain happy. However, sometimes a simple spring change can do wonders. But for those looking for an aftermarket trigger, there is one thing to keep in mind. All aftermarket triggers, with the exception of Jard, use the STOCK Savage Sear. In both top & bottom Sear style. In my extensive study & use, this limits what any trigger can deliver. “So everyone should just go buy a Jard then, right? Because it includes an aftermarket Sear with the Jard trigger” Well, not exactly. Feedback of the Jard trigger has been mixed. It’s either a love it or hate trigger. They don’t really have any middle ground. It will either work, or need a lot of WORK to get it right! Even then, it won’t really give the shooter anything over what a properly set up factory trigger can do. Aftermarket Savage Triggers cost anywhere from around $100 for the basic Rifle Basix, up to over $300 for the new Bix’n Andy. And yes, even for over $300, the Bix’n Andy trigger still uses the FACTORY Savage Sear! And there is so much more I could talk about here, but having a super “LIGHT” trigger, doesn’t mean a shooter will be more accurate. Most precision shooters actually, are using triggers in the 1.5-2lb range consistently. Going to a 4oz trigger doesn’t instantly make one accurate. It just doesn’t. Accuracy is the byproduct of consistency. NOT the byproduct of a “light trigger”. Also, on that note, there is more to a trigger than the LBS. of pressure. As I mentioned earlier, there is smooth take-up & release, the break & over-travel. I’ve set up triggers on 1911’s that would break at 4lbs, but felt better (and lighter), than some 2-pound triggers I’ve pulled. Just food for thought. Also, we don’t really want our hunting rifle’s trigger to be, really, anything under 2lbs. Maybe even heavier. And for those who have not experienced, a trigger under 1-pound is startlingly light. The term “hair trigger” is just a word until experienced. These things will go off if you even THINK about touching the trigger! LOL!
. So those are things which apply to all Savages I think. From there it’s deciding what it’s for. Chassis are popular for target & bench rifles, but not as much for hunting guns. And of course, the topic that drew many to Savage in the first place. The replaceable Barrel. But then, do you need a barrel replacement? If the gun is new, then no. Ok, you bought is used in the caliber/cartridge you wanted. Well, have you fired it? How’s it shoot? These are things one should know before even thinking about a new barrel. When I first started building Savage 110’s, I looked for the cheapest used rifle I possible could find! Found a used model 10 in 243Win(which wasn’t the cartridge I wanted anyway.), so I knew from the beginning, and was planning on rebarrel & build from the start. When next I build another, I’ll purchase a bare hooded Actions to start. I that is your interest, several barrel manufacturers offer super high quality Prefits. Shilen, Criterion, McGowen, X-Caliber, Krieger, Preferred, are the main players. Theres also EABCO, & Shaw Barrels on the more budget end & places like Bugholes that will sell & machine top shelf Bartlein & Brux barrels as Prefits.
