Axis Magnum cartridge conversion.

[ONE-TEN]

A couple of these conversions have been done. I converted a Bolt assembly to use a Magnum Bolt head for a member at the old forum. I also was did the first recorded adjustable Firing Pin swap in an Axis, at the same time.

There is a bit of machining involved. The 110 Long Action Magnum Bolt Head must be used, however, it’s too long as it sits. So it must be shortened, squared & rebeveled.



Next is the adjustable firing pin. It must be a Long Action firing pin. Here is a Long Action, Short Action (both adjustable), compared to an Axis 1-piece pin.

The 110LA FP must be shortened & rethreaded & turned at the the approx. spots shown here.

Once completed, here is the NEWLY machined Adjustable FP for the Axis(Top), compared to a 110SA FP.

Now the parts can be assembled. Also. A single bearing ball Lift Kit can be used.

Here is setting the correct pin protrusion at about .030”


And here is an Axis Magnum converted bolt assembly, with the FIRST Adjustable Firing Pin swap.

 

[mattri]

Neat!

 

[Alan]

A couple of these conversions have been done. I converted a Bolt assembly to use a Magnum Bolt head for a member at the old forum. I also was did the first recorded adjustable Firing Pin swap in an Axis, at the same time.

There is a bit of machining involved. The 110 Long Action Magnum Bolt Head must be used, however, it’s too long as it sits. So it must be shortened, squared & rebeveled.


Next is the adjustable firing pin. It must be a Long Action firing pin. Here is a Long Action, Short Action (both adjustable), compared to an Axis 1-piece pin.

The 110LA FP must be shortened & rethreaded & turned at the the approx. spots shown here.

Once completed, here is the NEWLY machined Adjustable FP for the Axis(Top), compared to a 110SA FP.

Now the parts can be assembled. Also. A single bearing ball Lift Kit can be used.

Here is setting the correct pin protrusion at about .030”


And here is an Axis Magnum converted bolt assembly, with the FIRST Adjustable Firing Pin swap.

Good work. It takes a lot of patience and expertise especially if machining is involved.

 

[ONE-TEN]

Good work. It takes a lot of patience and expertise especially if machining is involved.

Well I’m no professional, just a Hobbyist gun smith/builder. But I do quite a bit of very good work. Honestly, there is very little I’m not able to do. I don’t chamber Barrels or turn large things because I don’t have the floor space for a proper size lathe. I have to make do with a Bench Mill. But bench mills do 90% of a Bridgeport does. And it’s not just Savage/Smiffin’or AR15 LEGOS I’m playing with. I started building AKMs in 2004/05. Before that, in 1999, I had been started upgrading anything I could get my hands on, and doing trigger jobs. I’ve also repaired, upgraded and built complete 1911’s. And done Action jobs on revolvers. So yeah, not much I CAN’T do. All in all I think I do’s a purty good job on stuff. Especially considering I’m doing it all with only One Arm/Hand… I mean, not for nothin’.

 

[calinb]

I'm also a hobbyist gunsmith. A few years ago, I converted a 270 Win Axis II to a 358 Norma Magnum, because I didn't want to pay 358 Norma Magnum prices. I recall that I milled the new Magnum bolt head shorter but I also milled the original bolt's cocking groove very lightly longer (or did something similar) to get correct firing pin protrusion. I recall that I did not use an adjustable pin. I had Shaw chamber a 26" 1:14 barrel for it and I pillar bedded a Boyds stock for it too. I developed an accurate 250 gr. Norma Oryx bullet load that shot around 2900 fps and took it on a month-long Idaho Moose hunt. Unfortunately, my hunting partner and I only had one viable shot during the hunt and I let him take the shot. I did end up with half a moose in my freezer though!

I documented the things I did differently from my "Maxis" conversion predecessors on the old Savage forum. Unfortunately, they are now lost and I could not find my posts on archive.org either. If I ever draw another moose tag, I'll take it hunting again. My 358 Norma Maxis is a very good and perfectly reliable shooter. I have a parts bag full of all the parts needed to build a second one. I might build a 375 Ruger someday.

-Cal

Edit: I think I shortened and re-beveled the magnum bolt head on my lathe and did the minor adjustment to the cocking slot on my lathe.

 

[CFJunkie]

You guys have talents that are out of my league.
Fortunately, I have a buddy who can do stuff like you do.

 

[ONE-TEN]

I'm also a hobbyist gunsmith. A few years ago, I converted a 270 Win Axis II to a 358 Norma Magnum, because I didn't want to pay 358 Norma Magnum prices. I recall that I milled the new Magnum bolt head shorter but I also milled the original bolt's cocking groove very lightly longer (or did something similar) to get correct firing pin protrusion. I recall that I did not use an adjustable pin. I had Shaw chamber a 26" 1:14 barrel for it and I pillar bedded a Boyds stock for it too. I developed an accurate 250 gr. Norma Oryx bullet load that shot around 2900 fps and took it on a month-long Idaho Moose hunt. Unfortunately, my hunting partner and I only had one viable shot during the hunt and I let him take the shot. I did end up with half a moose in my freezer though!

I documented the things I did differently from my "Maxis" conversion predecessors on the old Savage forum. Unfortunately, they are now lost and I could not find my posts on archive.org either. If I ever draw another moose tag, I'll take it hunting again. My 358 Norma Maxis is a very good and perfectly reliable shooter. I have a parts bag full of all the parts needed to build a second one. I might build a 375 Ruger someday.

-Cal

Edit: I think I shortened and re-beveled the magnum bolt head on my lathe and did the minor adjustment to the cocking slot on my lathe.

Hey Cal! Oh yeah, I read your thread long before doing the MAXIS conversion. I’m Dave Hoback from S. Shooters. Guy that was super helpful and banned because of it? Actually, it was after doing this MAXIS conversion I was banned. But I only converted the Bolt for the member with the rifle. Your thread was the reason I knew it was possible. Only the adjustable firing pin striker assembly was my idea.

Sorry, the Bolt length is misleading.


It’s only longer because the MAGNUM Bolt Head has longer LUGS. The bolt head stalk is the same length as the factory Short Action uses. So everything in the Bolt stayed the same. See?


Unfortunately, no lathe for me. Don’t have room. Everything is done either with my mil, or combination of material removal with my belt grinder & painstakingly slow, squaring & trying by hand.

 

[ONE-TEN]

You guys have talents that are out of my league.
Fortunately, I have a buddy who can do stuff like you do.

Well Hal, I’m certainly not in your league with precision accuracy either, my friend. I mean, I can hit what I’m aiming at, and make tight groups. I’m certainly no slouch. And I was better when I had TWO hands & TWO eyes, sure. But even then I couldn’t hope to compete with your shooting prowess.

The Lord blesses us each with our own, individual talents. Pickin’ up what I’m puttin’ down?

 

[calinb]

<snip>

Thanks for your reply to my reply, DaveH. I'm pleased to hear my posts on the old SavageShooters forum were useful to you and you took the conversion farther with your adjustable firing pin, which provides you with the flexibility to hit the correct protrusion no matter what!

Obviously I'm having trouble remembering precisely how I did the conversion and I can't remember what steps I did on my mini-lathe and what steps I did on my mini-mill. I'd like to think it's because I do so many projects that they kind of merge in my mind after a few years rather than being due to any serious cognitive decline in retirement. It's part of the reason why I try to document my activities on various forums, depending on the task at hand, but forums are not forever, even with the "Wayback Machine" (archive.org).

I recently purchased a proper gunsmithing lathe (Precision Matthews PM-1340GT) and I'm in the middle of installing a variable speed drive (VFD) on it to produce 3-phase digitally controlled variable speed. I have no plans to replace my mini mill on which I've made several upgrades. Like you, I think bench mills work great for nearly all gun smithing projects.

It took a long time before I acquired a shop with enough space for the larger lathe. I had plans and parts to extend my mini lathe bed, like the guy who made his own chamber reamers with his mini and chambered his match--winning barrels. Like you, I think, I've always believed it's 90% the machinist and only 10% the machine--at least when the machinist has lots of time.

See you back here on the forum soon, I hope.

-Cal

 

[ONE-TEN]

Thanks for your reply to my reply, DaveH. I'm pleased to hear my posts on the old SavageShooters forum were useful to you and you took the conversion farther with your adjustable firing pin, which provides you with the flexibility to hit the correct protrusion no matter what!

Obviously I'm having trouble remembering precisely how I did the conversion and I can't remember what steps I did on my mini-lathe and what steps I did on my mini-mill. I'd like to think it's because I do so many projects that they kind of merge in my mind after a few years rather than being due to any serious cognitive decline in retirement. It's part of the reason why I try to document my activities on various forums, depending on the task at hand, but forums are not forever, even with the "Wayback Machine" (archive.org).

I recently purchased a proper gunsmithing lathe (Precision Matthews PM-1340GT) and I'm in the middle of installing a variable speed drive (VFD) on it to produce 3-phase digitally controlled variable speed. I have no plans to replace my mini mill on which I've made several upgrades. Like you, I think bench mills work great for nearly all gun smithing projects.

It took a long time before I acquired a shop with enough space for the larger lathe. I had plans and parts to extend my mini lathe bed, like the guy who made his own chamber reamers with his mini and chambered his match--winning barrels. Like you, I think, I've always believed it's 90% the machinist and only 10% the machine--at least when the machinist has lots of time.

See you back here on the forum soon, I hope.

-Cal

I agree partner. Bench mills work perfectly for DIY’rs. Think of like this: a Mini/small milling machine will do 90% of all the milling work one might normally do. Mine is a FrankenMill, so to speak. It started life as a Mini-Mill, but I’ve completely rebuilt it with a new Spindle, using Angle-Contact bearings. I also replaced the 1/3HP motor with a 1hp, brushless motor, and made my own Cog-pulley, Belt Drive system. Added close to 100lbs of weight by filling the base & upright with Granite-Epoxy, and reinforced the unit with Steel plate bolted to back, locking the base & upright together. Last thing, I switched to ACME Lead Screws & longer, larger turn handles. It’s a fairly capable machine now. I mill Steel & even Titanium quite a bit. But yes, it takes a machinist with know how, to work each tool effectively.