Which Savage rifle models have user-replaceable barrels?

S

Savage 12

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One of the things that convinced me to buy my two Savage 12 rifles (one F-Class model in 6.5/284 and the other Varmint Low Profile in 300 WSM) was that I can easily replace the barrels myself when they get shot out, or if and when I want to change up my chamberings.

I've recently been browsing Gunbroker for another Savage, this time in 223 ... looking for a cheap-to-shoot short/medium-range varmint rig, and I want one that I can replace the barrels on myself, like my Savage 12 rifles.

So: Do ALL Savage rifles use the barrel nut system like my Model 12 rifles ... in other words, do they all have user-replaceable barrels? Or only some models?

If not all Savage models use this system, can anyone tell me which models / families to avoid if I want to replace barrels myself?

I'm getting dizzy seeing all the newer models of Savages on Gunbroker — Axis, Axis 2, Axis II Compact, Axis II Pro, Axis XP, Model 25, Model 10 ...

Thanks in advance for any information, and many thanks to the forum hosts for making this resource available.
 
The barrel nut has been a Savage feature for as long as I can remember.
All of my 7 Savage 110s have a barrel nut, but the Large Shank models have a slightly shorter barrel nut to accommodate the thicker Shank. One of my Model 12s, a 12 LRP has a Large Shank and two others, 12 FVs have a Small Shanks.
I think the model 12s with LR in their titles might probably also be Large Shank models.

The Savage barrels are really easy to replace. My last barrel exchange took 30 minutes, and most of that time was spent in preparation of the new barrel and removal of the old barrel.
 
Thank you, CFJunkie. Yeah, both of my Model 12s are large-shank...with nuts that are about 5/8" long. (Until I bought my 12 VLP, I thought all Model 12s had three action screws -- like my 12 F-Class -- but the 12VLP only has two action screws, I guess because it has a magazine whereas the 12 F-Class is single-shot...)

I appreciate your help. Here's hoping this new site someday gets as widely used as the former Savage forum.
 
I have a Savage 10TAC... this was the cheapo Cabelas version they sold some years ago. It has the bolt release plunger on the front of the trigger guard, as opposed to the traditional release alongside the receiver. It also has a smooth barrel nut. It's my understanding that you would have to use something like a pipe wrench to get the original nut off, and replace it with a standard (or aftermarket) Savage barrel nut when installing a new barrel. I don't know if there are any peculiarities with the barrel itself...
 
Not sure Savage uses the smooth barrel nut any longer but a $15 strap wrench works a lot better than a pipe wrench.
OP- if looking for “inexpensive” don’t shy away from the AXIS series. A little different than the “110” series but just as user friendly and same accuracy traits that the 110’s are known for out of the box.
Kevin
 
The Axis uses the same barrel but the receivers are different, the triggers and stocks are different.

Older models of the 10 and 11 are basically the same, difference mostly is one uses a top bolt release and the other uses a bottom bolt release. The other basic difference is the ejection port used. Some of the new 110's use the Target Ejection port. As far as I know only the Magnum Actions and the Model 12's use the large shank.

I have one of each. They all have been rebarreled. A couple more than once. Also have 3 bolt heads. One for the 223 family, one for the 6.5 Grendel family and one for the 308 family.
 
To judge by that link, this is a small shank barrel?

ODPhqODl.jpg
 
One thing I wanted to add, for any newer Savage owners who happen across this:

When we say “model 110”, it actually encompasses ALL model 110-116, and model 10-16. The different numbers were simply to denote differences such as Long vs Short & characteristics in equipment. Then also the model 12’s which were the Target models. ALL of those, as well as ALL Axis & ALL Impulse models use Barrel Nuts.



Much better now just being “110 Long/Short” Action, as well as the model 12’s.
 
Not all 12s were target models, some were varmint/LE, the 12FV is a good example. It had the varmint/LE trigger (1.5lb) vs target trigger (6oz). Target models are readily identifiable by the red safety blade, excellent triggers IMO. ;)
 
SevenFan said:
Not all 12s were target models, some were varmint/LE, the 12FV is a good example. It had the varmint/LE trigger (1.5lb) vs target trigger (6oz). Target models are readily identifiable by the red safety blade, excellent triggers IMO. ;)
Click to expand...
Yes, the 12FV was a Cabalas ONLY, special run and no longer available. (Not part of Savage’s usual lineup.) But indeed, you are correct.☺️

I should have said the model 12 is normally viewed as the Target models.😊


Off topic: I do wish I had grabbed one of those 12FVs, but alas.
 
Thankfully, I have two of the 12 FVs, in .223 and 6.5mm CM, bought both on the same day for 319.99 each. What a bargain. The stocks were the only cheap component and both were switched to an Oryx chassis.

The .223 had 9,030 rounds down the tube and was still averaging between 0.256 and 0.265 with most bullets, but I was concerned that I was loading out so far to maintain jump that I was endangering neck tension consistency, so I changed to a Shilen Select Match 26-inch 416R SS barrel and to a MDT LSS chassis that I got on sale. It is now averaging well under 1/4 MOA and over 30% of the 5-round groups are averaging under 0.200.

The barrel change worked so well that I also changed the barrel in the 6.5mm CM version to a Shilen Select Match 28-inch even though the 6.5mm CM had only about 5,000 rounds down the tube. The 6.5mm CM was a bit harder on the barrel, though, and I was also concerned that I was approaching problems with neck tension consistency.
 
CFJunkie said:
Thankfully, I have two of the 12 FVs, in .223 and 6.5mm CM, bought both on the same day for 319.99 each. What a bargain. The stocks were the only cheap component and both were switched to an Oryx chassis.

The .223 had 9,030 rounds down the tube and was still averaging between 0.256 and 0.265 with most bullets, but I was concerned that I was loading out so far to maintain jump that I was endangering neck tension consistency, so I changed to a Shilen Select Match 26-inch 416R SS barrel and to a MDT LSS chassis that I got on sale. It is now averaging well under 1/4 MOA and over 30% of the 5-round groups are averaging under 0.200.

The barrel change worked so well that I also changed the barrel in the 6.5mm CM version to a Shilen Select Match 28-inch even though the 6.5mm CM had only about 5,000 rounds down the tube. The 6.5mm CM was a bit harder on the barrel, though, and I was also concerned that I was approaching problems with neck tension consistency.
Click to expand...

Yeah! That’s it. They were $320! Unreal! Another good one, was maybe 2 years ago I think, Academy Sports was offering the Savage 110 Trail Blazer for like $420 I want to say? Another one I should have jumped on.
 
I also bought a Cabela's Specified Savage 6.5mm CM 10T-SR for about $550 in 2017.
The 12 FV 6.5mm CM shot more accurately and liked the same heavy bullets as my 12 LRP 6.5mm CM and become my reloading test gun to save the barrel on the much more expensive 12 LRP.

I bought the two 12 FVs in March 2019. Cabela's list price was 419.99, but I paid 319.99.
A buddy bought the same 12 FV about a month before me and paid $260. I missed that even better bargain.

Since the Pandemic, Cabela's hasn't been selling any Cabela's specified Savage rifles that I have seen.
Perhaps, Savage is discouraging Cabela's selling Savage products ay severe discounts and stopped that practice.
In response, Savage appears to be concentrating on Axis products to keep their prices down.
 
That’s exactly it! Savage wants the Axis to be their “bargain” rifle, and they went & jacked the prices on everything else. They are putting better stocks, and in a couple even Carbon Fiber barrels & charging like $1100-$3000+ for them! I don’t know. I just think they are reaching.
 
SevenFan said:
Not all 12s were target models, some were varmint/LE, the 12FV is a good example. It had the varmint/LE trigger (1.5lb) vs target trigger (6oz). Target models are readily identifiable by the red safety blade, excellent triggers IMO. ;)
Click to expand...
I have both versions of the Model 12 ... the F-Class with red trigger (love it, but it's a bit light for field use) and the Varmint Low Profile (slightly heavier but still love it, as it has no detectable creep) varmint/LE trigger you mention.

Unfortunately, I purchased a Savage 22LR (Mark II BTVSS) thinking that it would have as nice a trigger as my other Accutriggers (I didn't ask the salesman if I could dry fire it, wish I had!) but it's not even close.
 
Savage 12 said:
I have both versions of the Model 12 ... the F-Class with red trigger (love it, but it's a bit light for field use) and the Varmint Low Profile (slightly heavier but still love it, as it has no detectable creep) varmint/LE trigger you mention.

Unfortunately, I purchased a Savage 22LR (Mark II BTVSS) thinking that it would have as nice a trigger as my other Accutriggers (I didn't ask the salesman if I could dry fire it, wish I had!) but it's not even close.
Click to expand...
I know it’s been some time with this, but I forgot to add, concerning your post:

The trigger on your Mark II can easily be made very nice. Search for another Savage enthusiast within driving distance to yourself, who is accomplished with trigger work. On the old Savage Forum (and other forums), several people would send me their trigger components so I could “work” the trigger for a lighter, more crisp pull with very little-no creep & overtravel stop. I did all this at no charge because I enjoy helping other firearms enthusiasts where I can. If you were close enough, I’d encourage you do the same. However, I’m not an FFL, so can’t ship any firearms to me. But there are others who do the same. I’m sure if you search, you can find someone close to you who would be happy to help.

Alternatively, I could easily walk you through, online, doing the work yourself. Here is a tutorial showing one method of working the Mark II Accutrigger.
https://www.msgo.com/threads/how-to-do-a-trigger-job-on-a-savage-mk-ii-accu-trigger.42031/
 
Savage 12 said:
One of the things that convinced me to buy my two Savage 12 rifles (one F-Class model in 6.5/284 and the other Varmint Low Profile in 300 WSM) was that I can easily replace the barrels myself when they get shot out, or if and when I want to change up my chamberings.

I've recently been browsing Gunbroker for another Savage, this time in 223 ... looking for a cheap-to-shoot short/medium-range varmint rig, and I want one that I can replace the barrels on myself, like my Savage 12 rifles.

So: Do ALL Savage rifles use the barrel nut system like my Model 12 rifles ... in other words, do they all have user-replaceable barrels? Or only some models?

If not all Savage models use this system, can anyone tell me which models / families to avoid if I want to replace barrels myself?

I'm getting dizzy seeing all the newer models of Savages on Gunbroker — Axis, Axis 2, Axis II Compact, Axis II Pro, Axis XP, Model 25, Model 10 ...

Thanks in advance for any information, and many thanks to the forum hosts for making this resource available.
Click to expand...
Just look at them. If you see a barrel nut it's what you need.
 
ONE-TEN said:
I know it’s been some time with this, but I forgot to add, concerning your post:

The trigger on your Mark II can easily be made very nice. Search for another Savage enthusiast within driving distance to yourself, who is accomplished with trigger work. On the old Savage Forum (and other forums), several people would send me their trigger components so I could “work” the trigger for a lighter, more crisp pull with very little-no creep & overtravel stop. I did all this at no charge because I enjoy helping other firearms enthusiasts where I can. If you were close enough, I’d encourage you do the same. However, I’m not an FFL, so can’t ship any firearms to me. But there are others who do the same. I’m sure if you search, you can find someone close to you who would be happy to help.

Alternatively, I could easily walk you through, online, doing the work yourself. Here is a tutorial showing one method of working the Mark II Accutrigger.
https://www.msgo.com/threads/how-to-do-a-trigger-job-on-a-savage-mk-ii-accu-trigger.42031/
Click to expand...
David,
I can't thank you enough for that link. I actually saved that page about 10 or so years ago, but at the time I used Apple Mac computers, and the files got saved in some worthless format that's inaccessible to me now that I've switched over to Linux. Anyway, I saved the files as html and pdf so I should be good for future reference. Thanks again.
S12
 
Savage 12 said:
David,
I can't thank you enough for that link. I actually saved that page about 10 or so years ago, but at the time I used Apple Mac computers, and the files got saved in some worthless format that's inaccessible to me now that I've switched over to Linux. Anyway, I saved the files as html and pdf so I should be good for future reference. Thanks again.
S12
Click to expand...

My pleasure. 👍

Did you really? Pretty cool. It’s a decent outline of improvement. You can also play with springs, add an overtravel stop, etc. Any Accutrigger can be made very, very nice! Any trigger can, actually. I’ve said in the past, this is what custom building 1911’s really taught me. There are no “drop in” triggers for them. Every part must be sized, stoned, filed & polished with a combination of Jigs & finished by hand. It truly teaches & gives one a deep understanding of precision in setting up triggers.
 

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